Jackal mask pepakura files free movie#

The effect of this is to create shadow areas in the recesses and highlight areas on the raised parts. The idea is that any recessed areas will not take paint, whilst those raised areas and details will pick up more pigment particles and therefore more paint. Now use a very light circular application of the paint on to your work piece. If it is too wet you will get streaks which you don't want. Ideally you want very little, and almost dry paint on the brush. Fill out the bristles with paint by using a circular motion on the card.

Put a small blob of paint onto a piece of card and then load the brush from that using a dabbing action. I generally use a 1' soft blusher brush for this work. I got mine from Wilkinsons here in the UK and paid about £2.00 each for mine. These are available from many retail outlets, but get the cheaper ones. You need to get some cheap make up 'blusher' brushes. You can make up a good gunmetal using metallic silver with a little black mixed in. Once the black has dried fully, the next stage is to 'dry-brush' with gunmetal grey. This will give 'depth' and more realism to the final work. The trick is to build up the colour in layers allowing for shading and highlights. i will try and go through step by step here.įor a metallic finish I generally start with a black undercoat, here I have used artists acrylic on the corrected section. I've had quite a few enquiries as to how I paint my creations. Eventually you will be adding ever thinner and smoother layers of putty and the surface should be smoothed out with the Dremel and wet and dry paper. I keep on filling and shaping and sanding. This stage is critical to the final mask, but take your time and have patience. Once these have set they will be strong enough to support further sculpting and sanding. I altered their shape a little using some card inserts covered in putty. Once 80% of the mask was covered, I noticed that the eyes were a little bigger and less menacing than the original. This allows me to see where I am and which bits need more putty or more sanding back. the putty is applied, allowed to set, then rough sanded back using the Dremel. In the US 'Bondo' car body filler is the brand usually used for this.īecause the putty sets very quickly (5 or 6 minutes working time if you are lucky) I work in small areas at a time. I use Isopon P38 Easy Sand because it's easy to get here in the UK. I began by applying car body filler which is a polyester resin based putty. All the flat surfaces need to be smoothed out and rounded. They are too 'flat' and need to be more bulbous.

Jackal mask pepakura files free movie#

Also a good look over the movie original stills shows that the lower jowls are the wrong shape. It's obvious that the laser sighting system(s) are missing and will be added in later. Once the fibreglass has fully cured and the mask is rock hard, it's time to iron out all the facets and make any corrections to the original sculpt. It can be left for years before any further work is done, and should last for a very long time. I then used a Dremel to sand and clean up all the edges, remove any sharp bits from the inside, then cut out the eyes.Īt this stage the mask is totally stable and very tough. That should be enough to make a really strong mask.

I used one layer of tissue matt followed by one layer of coarse matt. Once this had all cured fully, I removed the masking tape support strip from the rear and began the process of adding Fibreglass to the inside. The card will become an integral part of the resin and make it almost unbreakable. You should see the resin 'soak' into the card making it translucent, this is exactly what we want. Make sure that the card is well covered in resin. This strengthens the card enormously and allows the heavier treatment it will get later. I gave the mask two coats on both the inside and the outside. So the next step is to coat the card structure with resin. The card structure does not have enough strength on it's own for any meaningful use.